Resource Guarding

I will write an in depth article about this in the future, but for now, here are resources from other dog professionals:

Rebekah Piedad - Resource Guarding and the Myths that Surround the Behavior

Rebekah Piedad - Don't Sweat the Small Stuff: Minimizing Resource Guarding by Letting Stuff Go

Emily Larlham - Resource Guarding in Dogs

Dr Patricia McConnell - Resource Guarding Revisited (dog to human)

Dr Patricia McConnell - Resource Guarding, Dog to Dog (Repost)

Jean Donaldson - Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs

Lili Chin - Constructional Aggression Treatment (C.A.T.)

Resource Guarding/Food Aggression (video)

Warning signals during resource guarding (dog body language lesson)

Leash Reactivity: Emergency Exit Strategies

Okay, now that you understand the common reasons for leash reactivity to occur, how to avoid letting your dog rehearse it, and why it’s so important to work with your dog below threshold, let’s get to hands-on training!

Emergency exit strategies

Before we jump into set ups and working around triggers, work on these foundation exercises. I refer to these as “emergency exit strategies” because they are most commonly used to prevent your dog from getting into a bad situation, or getting him out when he’s already starting to go over threshold. You should first practice them randomly at home and on walks, when everything is calm and there are NO triggers around. Practice until your dog responds correctly and happily to each cue.

Name game: Use to improve your dog's responsiveness to his name.

1. Call your dog's name.

2. Immediately after, throw him a little party - happy talk, a treat, playtime, etc.

U-turn: Use to cue your dog to turn around voluntarily, without stress and without alerting him that a trigger is nearby. Later on, this will also make it easier for your dog to do the Engage-Disengage exercise (see below).

1. With your dog on leash, walk forward a few steps.

2. Say “u-turn!”

3. Turn around 180 degrees.

4. Jog forward a few steps.

5. Reward your dog for catching up with you.

Climbing up the leash: Use when your dog is at the end of a tight leash, and you need to get closer to get his attention or lead him away.

1. Place one hand in front of the other along the leash, as if you were climbing a rope. Repeat until your hands are close to your dog's collar. (Make sure that you are the one moving toward your dog, not pulling your dog toward you.)

2. Use the name game, treat magnet, or gentle but steady pressure on the leash/collar/harness to turn your dog away from the trigger.

Treat magnet: Use to distract and lead your dog away if he’s to too fixated to respond to the “u-turn” cue, or when you really don’t want him to look around and spot a trigger in the area.

1. Grab a small handful of treats in your hand. There should be enough treats that your dog can lick and nibble for a while, but not so many that they’re falling out of your hand.

2. Hold your hand into a lightly closed “tunnel” shape, and place it directly in front of your dog's nose.

3. As your dog starts to lick or nibble at the treats, lure his head to the side and have him follow the treats until he's turned around and walking away from the trigger.

4. Let him continue to eat the treats as he's walking away.

5. The handful of treats should act like a “magnet” attached to his nose - he doesn’t look up or away, just keeps his attention fully focused on the food.

Ziggy and his owner demo turning away using the name game, climbing up the leash, and the treat magnet.

Demo of teaching the “scatter” cue.

Scatter: Use to distract your dog when you are unable to completely avoid a trigger. Also use to give your dog a break and help him calm down (works best in grass).

1. Say “scatter!”

2. Scatter 3-5 treats on the ground and let your dog hunt for them.

3. Repeat as many times as needed until trigger is gone or dog is calm enough to continue walk.

Leash Reactivity: Training Around Triggers

You have the background info, you’ve done the foundational training. Finally, let’s get to actually teaching your dog to be calm around his triggers.

Desensitization and counter conditioning

This is one of the gold standard approaches to reducing reactivity, especially when it is caused by fear or anxiety. In brief, we will teach your dog that the appearance of his triggers predicts getting yummy treats. Here is an article with more information on this process and how to apply it.

1. Dog sees trigger.

2. Dog gets treat - sometimes just one, sometimes a stream of treats the whole time the trigger is happening/in sight.

Engage-Disengage Game

I often begin training with straight desensitization and counter conditioning exercises, but then progress to using the Engage-Disengage Game. There are two stages to this:

1. Mark and reward the dog as soon as he looks at the trigger (engages).

2. Let the dog look at the trigger for a few seconds and wait. Mark and reward as soon as the dog looks away (disengages) from the trigger.

Here is a lovely graphic from Alice Tong that explains the Engage-Disengage Game in detail.

If you prefer learning via video, here is one from Charleston Animal Society explaining how to teach this exercise, and here is another one from Bravo Dog Training & Behaviour.

Here is an example video of Georgia performing the Engage-Disengage Game with me while looking at another dog at PetSmart. (Yes, Georgia was very leash reactive before her training started!)

Here is a video of a dog fully trained in the Engage-Disengage (or “Look at That”) Game going for a stroll and “pointing out” potential triggers to his person.

This exercise provides the dog with a specific alternative behavior that they can perform instead of lunging, barking, and so on. It gives them more control over the situation and helps reframe the training exercise into a fun game. It also gives the owner more insight into how their dog is feeling about the trigger (did the dog disengage promptly or after a delay? Are the dog’s movements fluid and controlled or fast and frantic? Is the dog even able to disengage on his own without help?).

BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training)

This is another technique that works very well when combined with counter-conditioning and/or the Engage-Disengage Game. I will often use all three in a single session, flowing from one to the next as best fits the moment and the dog’s demeanor.

BAT was developed by Grisha Stewart. It is usually done with the dog on a long line (leash that is 10+ feet long) for better freedom of movement. (Remember that the more control your dog feels he has over the situation, the more relaxed he will be, which allows for greater success in the initial stages of training.) It can also be done on a regular leash if the dog is able to keep it loose.

We start far away and allow the dog to meander around the area. We keep him from inadvertently rushing toward the decoy, but allow him to observe his surroundings until he notices the helper. At that point you:

• Help your dog come to a stop by slowing down and then halting progress with the leash.

• Make sure the leash is slack once your dog has stopped.

• Wait and watch your dog's body language.

  • If your dog is becoming more tense/alert or starting to show overt reactivity toward the trigger, help him move away (use one of the exit strategies explained above).

  • If he is calmly observing the trigger, let him continue watching. (The exception is for dogs who will go over threshold if they stare for too long.)

  • When he disengages and goes back to walking, sniffing, or other calm behavior, praise and continue letting him meander around the area.

This training technique most closely resembles a “real” walk and the final behavior we want from your dog: noticing a trigger, watching for a moment, then turning away and continuing to walk with you.

Play Way

This approach, developed by Amy Cook, is different than most because rather than teaching your dog specific alternative behaviors around his triggers, it focuses on helping your dog truly relax and even play with you while out and about in the world. Here is her explanation on using social play for behavior problems, and here is a detailed article on the method. Lili Chin has created one of her adorable infographics with information, as well. I generally recommend this technique for dogs who have many triggers for their anxiety, and have trouble relaxing and letting down their guard.

Practice playing together both on and off leash, first in the house, then in the yard. Think of your playtime as including lots of back and forth communication: are you enjoying this? Do you need a break? Would you prefer to do something else? Follow the “3 second rule” - after about 3 seconds of play or petting, pause and see what your dog does. If he engages with you, great, keep going! If he turns away or looks around, that means that he needs a break, or is concerned about something in the environment, or wasn’t into the type of play/petting you were doing. Give him a moment to look around, then ask him if he would like to play some more.

Over time, you dog will build confidence and be happy to ignore the rest of the world in favor of connecting with you in play.

Here are some video examples of playing with dogs, without treats or toys, and without overwhelming shy dogs or getting bitten or jumped on by big dogs:

• Myself playing with Bodi at PetSmart.

• Tania Lanfer of Cannon Dog Training encouraging play outdoors.

• Amy Cook playing with a small dog, and using lots of little pauses to make sure the dog isn’t overwhelmed.

• Amy Cook coaching an owner with a large dog on playing together.

• Non-contact play with a puppy who needs a confidence boost.

• Man playing gently on the floor with a tiny Shih Tzu puppy. (Get ready for a huge boost of oxytocin!)

Rattlesnake Avoidance Training Info

With rattlesnakes being so common in our area, I am frequently asked about rattlesnake avoidance training. Many people are surprised to find out that the vast majority of this training is done by putting shock collars (also called “e-collar” or “stim collar”) onto the dogs in the class, and delivering a shock when they notice the snake. Proponents of this training believe that it’s worth putting the dogs through this experience in order to save their lives. However, there are problems with this plan:

• There is no way to guarantee that the dog will make the intended association between snake and shock.

  • The dog may actually associate the trainer, their owner, the other people, the other dogs, or the location with the shock - or even a random noise or scent that they sensed right before.

• There is no guarantee that this will keep your dog from being bitten by a snake, even if they do make the intended association.

  • Not all rattlesnakes rattle before they strike - especially if they don’t have time because something has suddenly stumbled right onto them. So then the sound and sight are not cuing your dog to move away.

  • Your dog may be upwind of the snake, so the smell is not cuing your dog to move away.

• Using shock (or any other form of pain or intimidation) is not recommended and simply not necessary to train dogs.

  • It is a standard of practice in many professional behavior organizations and with many certifications that trainers follow the Humane Hierarchy, which requires use of antecedent management, positive reinforcement, and other techniques before turning to aversive methods.

  • Dogs who are trained using aversive methods experience greater stress and are more likely to exhibit aggression.

• The snakes are also harmed during this training, as they are muzzled or defanged and repeatedly put into situations in which they perceive the need to act defensively (rattle) to protect themselves.

The good news is that there are alternatives - positive training methods can teach dogs to move away from rattlesnakes, too. Instead of using live snakes, trainers may use shed snake skin, recorded rattles, fake snakes, or even dead snakes. As above, there are no guarantees, but it is just as effective and now you are not risking serious fallout from the use of shock. The owner is an active participant in the process, which means that the dog’s responsiveness to and bond with their owner grows.

The bad news is that the shock collar trainers have really cornered this market, and it can be challenging to find local positive trainers offering classes or seminars. As soon as I hear of something in our area, I will add the info here!

Online training for rattlesnake avoidance

Fortunately there are online resources that you can utilize on your own schedule, and follow at your own pace:

• Eileen Koval’s online course

• Pamela Johnson’s on-demand video at Tawzer Dog

• Ken Ramirez’ online, six-week course at KPA

• Overview of Ken Ramirez’ protocol of teaching a dog to run to a kennel after seeing or smelling a snake, or hearing a rattle

There are other ways to protect your dog, too. [to be finished!]

vaccine info

understanding rattlesnake behavior

decreasing rattlesnake habitat on your property

The word NO

As a trainer who uses “positive”/”force-free” training methods, my focus is always on teaching dogs what we want them to do and developing good habits. For example, for dogs who pull on leash, I teach them to heel and focus on the owner instead. I don’t advocate using punishment - such as yanking on a prong collar or choke chain - to make the dog stop doing something undesirable. What comes along with this is that I almost never use the word “no.”

Why is “no” not useful?

• The intention of saying “no” is to get the dog to stop doing something. To us humans, it’s obvious what we’re referring to in the moment, eg, no barking, no biting, no jumping, no digging. To the dog, however, it’s not obvious at all! Especially since we tend to use the word “no” in many different contexts. It’s not specific enough to give useful information to the dog.

• Some dogs may stop whatever they are doing and give subdued body language when you raise your voice or talk sternly. In those cases, it may seem like reprimanding them is doing the trick. However, it doesn’t tell the dog what you do want them to do, so that they can form good habits. It also doesn’t address any underlying problems that may be causing the dog’s “naughty” behavior. If your dog is barking because they’re fearful of the stranger coming into the house, telling him “no barking” won’t solve the real issue at hand.

• Some other dogs just don’t care about their owner getting upset, or at least not enough to change their behavior. In which case, their frustrated owner is repeatedly saying “no no no!” while the dog continues on their merry way. As above, they are not being taught what we do want them to do. How are they supposed to do better next time?

So what should you do instead?

Don’t rely on using “no” to make any lasting changes in your dog’s behavior. Instead, use the following approaches to truly teach him different ways to behave.

• Management: Prevent your dog from rehearsing the unwanted behavior as much as possible.

• Be proactive: Make sure that your are meeting your dog’s baseline needs before he resorts to chewing up your shoes out of boredom. If you know that he tends to “act up” around a certain time of day, proactively give him exercise and appropriate activities before he starts up.

• Redirecting: If your dog does end up jumping, barking, digging, etc, you immediately step in to remedy the situation and redirect your dog to a more appropriate activity or simply remove him. This may involve the use of a positive interrupter, using a leash to physically move your dog away, or getting him interested in toys or treat training instead.

• Teach appropriate behaviors: Make sure your dog has a solid understanding of at least one alternative behavior. For example, if you want your barky pup to get your attention in a different way, teach him to sit quietly on cue.

• Build good habits: Encourage your dog to rehearse those more appropriate behaviors over and over, until they become his “go-to” choices.

• Desensitization and counter-conditioning: This should be applied for any behavior that is rooted in fear or anxiety. It is also often part of the training plan when dogs are over-excited, frustrated, or feeling other “big emotions.”

This video shows an example of a puppy who was biting his harness and owner’s hands every time she tried to put the harness on, despite firmly being told “no.” Chirag Patel showed his owner how to use treat training to teach the puppy to cooperate and easily put on the harness.

Time outs

There are situations I will recommend using a “time out” to discourage unwanted behaviors. A time out consists of 30 seconds to 2 minutes of the dog being removed from the situation in order to emphasize that we don’t want him to do a specific behavior. However this is always used in conjunction with the methods listed above, so that the dog is given information on what we do want him to be doing instead, those alternative behaviors are heavily reinforced, and the owner is using management and being proactive to prevent rehearsal of the unwanted behavior as much as possible.

Actions over words - using “no” effectively

If you are using time outs as part of your dog’s training program, THIS is the time to use your “no” effectively! (Although I tend to use the word “time out” instead, because it reminds me to be specific and consistent.)

1. Say “no” or “time out.”

2. Immediately after, put your dog up or remove yourself from the situation.

Now you have a cue that the dog will understand, and you can use it to highlight the exact moment that your dog did the unwanted behavior (eg right as he jumped up or nipped in play). It is your actions that give the cue meaning, rather than your specific wording or tone of voice.

All Done cue

The “all done” cue tells your dog “we’re done with petting/playing/training, so you can do your own thing.” It’s helpful for persistently optimistic dogs who keep bringing you their ball or stepping on your heels after fun time is over.

Simply show your empty hands (or do "jazz hands") and say "all done.” Then continue on with your day, ignoring your pup for the next few minutes at least. With some repetition and consistency, the dog will learn to wander off and entertain himself after you tell him "all done."

Here’s an example:

Troubleshooting:

• If your dog hasn’t yet learned the cue and continues to pester you for attention, make sure to ignore him. Do not repeat “all done,” or give him any petting or talk to him. He must get ignored in order to learn that the cue means "I am not going to interact with you anymore."

• If you’re worried that your dog will start to do a “naughty” behavior in order to get your attention again (such as chewing things up, stealing shoes, or nipping), you should have him in a puppy-proofed area.

• If you find that your dog experiences a spike of frustration and can’t settle down on his own, you can help him by giving him something else to do right before you cue "all done." This could be a chew, a food toy, a "fresh" toy for him to play with, or even just scattering a small handful of kibble/treats to redirect him as you leave.

Nose Work

Nose work is an activity in which the dog is taught to use their sense of smell to locate an object. “K9 Nose Work” specifically is an organized sport in which the objects to find are hidden q-tips that have a tiny amount of essential oil on them - birch, anise, or clove. There is also “AKC Scent Work” which uses those same scents plus cypress. The organizations that run these sports (NACSW, AKC, and UKC) put on competitions in which dogs and owners get to show off their training against an objective standard. However there are many benefits to training nose work with your dog even if you have zero interest in formal competition.

Why train nose work?

There are two big reasons that I recommend this type of training for clients:

1. It’s a major mental workout, which is a huge help for meeting the exercise and enrichment needs of active dogs. This is particularly helpful if you have a dog who is so athletic that you can’t tire him out physically, when the weather prevents you from getting out, or if your dog can’t do much physical exercise due to injury or illness.

2. It’s a huge confidence booster for anxious or shy dogs. It gives them a structured, fun way to explore new surroundings and acclimate to the presence of people, noises, new surfaces, etc. There’s even a study that shows that “practicing nosework increases dogs’ positive judgment bias or ‘optimism’.” The authors also note that “behaving naturally and making active choices are two key factors in animal welfare,” and “olfaction-based activities contribute to dogs’ welfare.”

There’s also a third reason… which is that it’s fun!

What does nose work look like?

The final picture looks a lot like the work done by working detection dogs, such as those finding narcotics, explosives, forbidden foods at airports, or sea turtle nests on beaches.

You, the owner, will determine the area that your dog will be searching in - for example, one room of your house, your garage, your yard, or a particular area of the park. Your dog may be off leash if it’s safe, or on leash in public. You give them their cue, and they go off to find the “hide” using their excellent sense of smell, then indicate its location by pointing at it with their nose, staring at it, sitting and looking at you, or another signal you’ve trained.

A dog can be trained to find many different scents. In lieu of the essential oils used in competition, you could use a spice or extract (one that you don’t normally use in your kitchen, so your dog doesn’t get confused when you’re cooking), a dog toy, or an object (such as your keys!). You can even just use their kibble or treats, especially at the beginning.

Here’s a video from AKC that explains the sport and shows dogs practicing. (Note that while the video mentions that dogs must be registered with the AKC in order to compete, it is NOT limited to purebreds. AKC provides a way to register mixed breeds so that they can compete in nose work and some other AKC sports.)

Here’s another video with examples of typical of K9 Nose Work training.

Getting started on your own

You’ll need:

• Kibble or treats for your dog

• The essential oil or other scent that your dog will be searching for

• A small vented container to hold the scented q-tip, cotton ball, etc. If you’re using something larger, like your key chain, and there’s no danger of your dog eating it, then you can skip putting it into a container.

• Metal tweezers, so that you don’t touch the scented q-tip or cotton ball directly. Be careful to avoid getting the oil on your fingers.

• An airtight container for you to store your scented supplies when you’re not training. Your dog should not have access to these things outside of training time.

• You can purchase kits that make it easier to get started. I have purchased my supplies from Paws 4 Fun. They have a great starter kit here.

• 6-10 small to medium cardboard boxes, if you are starting with the box method.

Here is an article with great information on preparing, handling, and storing your supplies.

Here is another article with information on storing the essential oils.

Video tutorials

These videos can get you on the right track for this fun game!

• Box method video #1: Nose Work - How to start training your dog - DreamK9.com

• Box method video #2: Nosework (introduction) basic introduction to nosework using boxes and treats.

• Targeting method: Teaching dogs the 'find it' scent game

• (More videos will be linked as I find them!)

Classes and private lessons

I highly recommend taking a private lesson or a group class if you and your dog are enjoying the game but you’re not sure how to make it more challenging over time.

I occasionally teach group classes in Vacaville - you can find full information on my introductory class here. I can also provide one on one training during private lessons.

Others who teach classes within a couple of hours of Vacaville.

• Jennie Kiefer of Nosey Goldens teaches in Dixon, Davis, Loomis, Newcastle, and surrounding areas. She is a wonderful instructor for both rambunctious and anxious dogs. She does both group classes and private lessons.

• Christa Wendlandt teaches small group classes in Vallejo.

• Dodger’s Paws in Pleasanton offers group classes.

• Tell A Tail is a training school in Livermore that does all nose work, all the time.

• The East Bay SPCA sometimes has nose work classes.

• The online Fenzi Dog Sports Academy has a whole nose work program.

Other helpful articles about nose work

Preparing for an ORT (Odor Recognition Test)

Alternative scent-based games

Here are links for other scent games that don’t fall into the typical “nose work” category - more will be added as I find good videos/articles.

• Scent Games by Pup to Perfection

Separation Anxiety Referrals

A very brief intro to working through separation anxiety

Owners often realize that their dog is experiencing separation anxiety because they hear incessant barking (or get complaints from neighbors about it) as they’re leaving or returning home, find their dog has demolished their home, broken out of their crate, or emptied their bladder or bowels. These dogs are not just upset about being left alone; they are experiencing panic attacks. The solution is not to purchase an indestructible crate and a bark collar to suppress their behavior, but rather, to use desensitization techniques to teach the dog that they can be alone and feel okay about it.

The first step is to stop leaving your dog alone for longer than they can handle - which probably means not leaving them at all. That may seem overwhelming, but with help, it can be done. Here are some options:

• Shifting your family members’ schedules when possible so that you trade off dog care.

• Having people come over to spend time with your dog while you’re out: neighbors, friends, family members, people within your communities such as church, knitting circles, sports teams.

• Taking your dog to spend time at someone else’s home - see list above, and consider other dog owners who don’t mind having one extra for a few hours. You could even trade care with them, so other times you’re watching both the dogs when they need a break.

• Posting on social media such as NextDoor or Facebook to find more helpers not already in your social circle.

• Bringing your dog with you on errands. (Just mind the temperature of the car on warm days.)

• Hiring a pet sitter.

• Taking your dog to daycare.

With that management plan in place, you will now begin the desensitization process. This starts with very, very low intensity doses of being “left alone” - that might be literally just opening the front door and closing it again, without stepping outside. Repeat until your dog shrugs this off as not interesting. Then start opening the front door, stepping through, returning, closing the door. You’ll also need to desensitize your dog to your “getting ready to go out” routine, such as putting on shoes, picking up keys, setting the alarm system, etc. There are many more nuances to this process and it should not be attempted without learning more from the resources or referrals below.

Getting help

While I do know how to help a dog work through separation anxiety (and even have personal experience with it), my preference is to refer out to people who specialize in this area. Here are my usual referrals and resources.

• Self-paced resources:

  • Malena DeMartini, a recognized expert in this area, has a self-paced online course called Mission Possible, with an option for the course plus regular help from a trainer, and a heavy-duty "walk you through everything" option. Her website is malenademartini.com/

  • Julie Naismith has a clear, easy to follow book called “Be Right Back!: How To Overcome Your Dog's Separation Anxiety And Regain Your Freedom.” There is also an online course with an app.

  • Here is a short video that gives a crash course on the training from Emily Larlham/KikoPup.

  • Here is a 2 hour webinar from Tracy Krulik (CSAT).

• Working with trainers:

  • Most separation anxiety training is done via video, since having a trainer in the room while you're practicing would defeat the purpose of alone training. So you can train with people all over the world!

    • Malena DeMartini also has a certified trainers (CSATs) providing online coaching for owners. You can sign up for a comprehensive package for the trainer to walk you through all the steps, or get hourly coaching as needed.

  • If you would prefer to support someone local, here are a few trainers in the greater Sacramento area who enjoy working with separation anxiety dogs:

    • Allison Daack of Daack Pack Dog Training

    • Shelly Keel (CSAT) of A Good Dog Day Behavior & Training

    • Beverly Lassiter of Head Over Heels

    • Chloe MacBean (CSAT) of Lab & Leo

    • Rebekah Piedad of Yes! Dog

Hang in there

Working through separation anxiety may seem like an overwhelming process at the beginning, but it has a very good prognosis as long as you carefully follow the desensitization protocol. Best of luck!

Transitioning an Outdoor Dog to Living Indoors

Sometimes people end up with dogs who have been living outdoors - perhaps due to allergies in a previous home, or because they never received training and are too rambunctious - and now the family wants to welcome their dog indoors with them. The first few tries may be disastrous, as the dog jumps all over the couch and coffee table, knocks things off the shelves, and steals the remote and any food left on the counter. How could you possibly teach such a dog to just hang out with you calmly?

This article presents one way to work through this transition. Please note that this does not cover potty training, integrating the dog with other animals already in the house, or teaching polite interactions with humans - though those things can be worked on simultaneously.

First things first

You must make sure that your dog is already getting sufficient physical exercise and mental stimulation/enrichment before you try bringing them indoors. No dog can settle calmly if they are full of energy and deeply bored.

The second thing for you to prioritize is arranging an area of your home so that your dog cannot easily get to the food, kids’ toys, decorative ceramics, etc. In most cases, a dog who has been living in a backyard or roaming a property has never learned that there are things that are “off limits” to them. You are going to be busy teaching your dog good habits and how to settle while in the house. If you are spending your time chasing him around and pulling things out of his mouth, you’re already off to a bad start.

• Use baby gates and x-pens and closed doors to limit where your dog can go.

• Put away everything in reach that’s valuable or dangerous.

• Use a leash as needed to keep your dog close and under supervision.

• Within the safe area, place your dog’s bed or mat, water bowl, several toys, and chews or food toys (see enrichment article for suggestions).

Once your dog is making progress with settling and engaging in appropriate activities, you can start trusting him with more freedom and progressively lowering the restrictions.

Teaching good habits

Take your dog out for a walk or run him around just before you bring him indoors, so that he’ll have an easier time relaxing. If needed, put him on leash in the house so that he can’t chase other pets, jump on the counters, etc. Let him sniff around your safe area otherwise, so that he can see what all the new stuff is.

After a minute or two, give him an appropriate activity to entertain him. You have several options:

• A chew or food toy with which he can entertain himself on his own.

• Play tug or fetch with him. (Note that for dogs that go crazy for fetch, you may want to keep that as an outdoor only activity.)

• Do active training, such as teaching a down stay on a mat or tricks to work his brain.

• Provide a massage as he relaxes.

Switch between the different options as you see fit. You can also periodically reward your dog for calm behavior, as shown in this video from Emily Larlham/KikoPup:

If your dog gets bored with one activity and starts getting into things he shouldn’t, you can:

• rearrange your safe area to prevent that in the future

• work on “leave it” or “settle” behaviors

• provide him with more exercise (eg go for a walk or hike)

• put him back outside

• move him to a crate or small pen to nap

Shifting to full-time indoor living

Once the routine is working well within the initial safe area, slowly expand your dog’s territory.

A key things to keep in mind during this process:

• The more time your dog spends indoors, the easier this will be. If he only gets to come in once or twice a week, the novelty and initial excitement won’t wear off.

• The dog is often most rambunctious in the first 5-10 minutes, then settles down.

• If you don’t provide enough appropriate outlets for his energy (both mentally and physically), it will be very difficult to keep him from stealing and chewing on things, jumping on everyone, harassing the other animals, etc.

Teaching Puppies to Drop It

Puppies love to pick things up and chew on them. It's fun, and it's part of exploring their world! They also love to play “keep away” when their human wants those things back. Here is how to prevent this bad habit.

Setting your puppy up for success

• Put away everything your pup might get into. That means shoes, socks, kids' toys, coasters on coffee tables, and everything else that is small and not weighted down must be placed up high, or behind a gate or door.

• Work on a strong response to the pup's name by playing the “name game”: Call your dog's name, then immediately feed him a tasty treat.

• Never chase your puppy, whether in play or because he has picked something up.

• When your dog does have something in his mouth, always do a trade to get it back. (See below.)

• Never pull something out of your dog's mouth unless it is an emergency because it's a truly dangerous object. (Forcefully removing objects creates defensiveness in your dog, which can lead to resource guarding. See below.)

• Practice “drop it” with toys and chews that your puppy is allowed to pick up, and give the item back after doing the trade. This way, your pup won’t associate giving up what he has with always losing his treasure.

How to trade to get an object back from your pup

1. Place a tasty treat right on your dog's nose.

2. When he drops what's currently in his mouth, let him eat the treat.

3. Once you've practiced this enough that it's going smoothly, say the cue “drop it” right before you place the treat on his nose.

4. With enough repetition, your pup will start to drop what's in his mouth and look up at you as soon as he hears the words “drop it.” You are now rewarding him for dropping the item on cue rather than just luring him with a treat.

   • If your pup regresses and does not drop the item when you say “drop it,” do not repeat the cue or try to grab the item. Follow the words “drop it” with the treat on the nose to keep the association strong. See more about teaching verbal cues here.

A quick demo of teaching “drop it.”

Here is a full video tutorial on teaching “drop it” via trading for a treat:

Here is a video tutorial on teaching “drop it” via trading for a toy, instead:

Trouble shooting:

• My puppy runs away even though I have treats:

  • Have your puppy wear a leash and let it drag on the floor behind him, so that you can step on the leash to interrupt running away.

  • Scatter multiple treats on the floor instead of reaching toward him with the treat.

  • Step back and let the puppy approach and eat treats without your “threatening” presence.

  • Pick up the item after your pup has moved away from it to eat the scattered treats. Be calm and subtle with your movement.

• My puppy drops the object to eat the treat but immediately picks it back up again:

  • Practice trading multiple times in a row.

  • Use scattering of treats to keep his mouth busier for longer while you pick up the object.

• My puppy growls or snaps when I reach for him, even with a treat.

  • Your puppy is exhibiting “resource guarding,” which is more intense than a normal “puppy picks up everything” problem. He needs a special training program to address this.

  • In the meantime, use scattering of treats instead of reaching directly for him. Use very yummy treats for this.

• My puppy constantly picks up wood chips, rocks, sticks, leaves, etc outside.

  • This is normal. Most puppies will pick the objects up, give a few chews, and then drop them on their own. If that's what your pup is doing, just let him. Don't stress yourself and your pup out by trying to prevent him from picking up every single item.

  • If your pup is actually swallowing these objects, this is potentially a safety issue. In that case, you need to:

    • prevent your puppy from walking around the problem objects

    • distract him with treats from up above if prevention is impossible during walks

    • do trades as necessary

    • consider training him to wear a basket muzzle.

Here is a video tutorial on using a treat scatter as the primary association with the cue “drop it” - highly recommended for dogs who have a strong history of playing “keep away” or have resource guarding issues: