Dog Body Language

Dogs primarily communicate through body language, and vocalization is secondary. Learning how to “read” your dog’s body language will greatly improve your understanding of his emotions, and therefore allow you to be a better caretaker and better trainer. I have consolidated many resources on this topic below.

 
 
 

Articles

Can dogs really look 'guilty'?

Dog owners have often claimed they can read the expressions of their pets - particularly that tell-tale look when they have done something wrong. But researchers at a New York college tricked owners into thinking innocent pets had misbehaved - with the owners still claiming to see this guilty look. The study found that the expression had no relation to the dogs' behaviour. And researchers found that pet owners' belief that they could read their dogs' "body language" was often entirely unfounded.

Docked Tails Play a Role in Dog Communication

It appears that the longer tails were most effective at conveying emotional information, and since short tails are hard to read, they might not be read at all. For Herman, the implications are obvious. “When you dock tails, it takes away part of their communication signal — essentially the dog version of botox. Ear cropping falls in the same category. Dobermans with cropped ears ostensibly look alert to other dogs. They can’t be read [accurately] because they can’t change.” It’s difficult to derive cues and information from cropped ears. If anything, their constantly alert position could mislead other dogs.

E’Lise Christensen, a board-certified veterinary behaviorist in New York City, agrees, “I think cosmetic alteration could affect communication with other dogs. It certainly [has an impact on] assessments by owners, because they forget to look at the stump of the tail for movement and tension. Ears that are too cropped mean owners have to look for muscular movement at the skull level rather than the pinna, the outer part of the ear, where we customarily look. Flat faces make it more difficult to read small muscular movements.”

Herman suggests that taking note of a dog’s morphology can give pet parents a better appreciation for their dog. “It’s hard for other dogs to see that a Chow is really stiff, simply because they are [engulfed] in a ball of hair. It can be helpful for dog parents to recognize that what dogs have or do not have at their disposal could add confusion to dog-dog communication. This appreciation could help people empathize with their dog, instead of blaming their dog or feeling angry for the dog’s behavior.”

 
Print Friendly and PDF
In

The word NO

As a trainer who uses “positive”/”force-free” training methods, my focus is always on teaching dogs what we want them to do and developing good habits. For example, for dogs who pull on leash, I teach them to heel and focus on the owner instead. I don’t advocate using punishment - such as yanking on a prong collar or choke chain - to make the dog stop doing something undesirable. What comes along with this is that I almost never use the word “no.”

 

Why is “no” not useful?

  • The intention of saying “no” is to get the dog to stop doing something. To us humans, it’s obvious what we’re referring to in the moment, eg, no barking, no biting, no jumping, no digging. To the dog, however, it’s not obvious at all! Especially since we tend to use the word “no” in many different contexts. It’s not specific enough to give useful information to the dog.

  • Some dogs may stop whatever they are doing and give subdued body language when you raise your voice or talk sternly. In those cases, it may seem like reprimanding them is doing the trick. However, it doesn’t tell the dog what you do want them to do, so that they can form good habits. It also doesn’t address any underlying problems that may be causing the dog’s “naughty” behavior. If your dog is barking because they’re fearful of the stranger coming into the house, telling him “no barking” won’t solve the real issue at hand.

  • Some other dogs just don’t care about their owner getting upset, or at least not enough to change their behavior. In which case, their frustrated owner is repeatedly saying “no no no!” while the dog continues on their merry way. As above, they are not being taught what we do want them to do. How are they supposed to do better next time?

 

So what should you do instead?

Don’t rely on using “no” to make any lasting changes in your dog’s behavior. Instead, use the following approaches to truly teach him different ways to behave.

  • Management: Prevent your dog from rehearsing the unwanted behavior as much as possible.

  • Be proactive: Make sure that your are meeting your dog’s baseline needs before he resorts to chewing up your shoes out of boredom. If you know that he tends to “act up” around a certain time of day, proactively give him exercise and appropriate activities before he starts up.

  • Redirecting: If your dog does end up jumping, barking, digging, etc, you immediately step in to remedy the situation and redirect your dog to a more appropriate activity or simply remove him. This may involve the use of a positive interrupter, using a leash to physically move your dog away, or getting him interested in toys or treat training instead.

  • Teach appropriate behaviors: Make sure your dog has a solid understanding of at least one alternative behavior. For example, if you want your barky pup to get your attention in a different way, teach him to sit quietly on cue.

  • Build good habits: Encourage your dog to rehearse those more appropriate behaviors over and over, until they become his “go-to” choices.

  • Desensitization and counter-conditioning: This should be applied for any behavior that is rooted in fear or anxiety. It is also often part of the training plan when dogs are over-excited, frustrated, or feeling other “big emotions.”

 

This video shows an example of a puppy who was biting his harness and owner’s hands every time she tried to put the harness on, despite firmly being told “no.” Chirag Patel showed his owner how to use treat training to teach the puppy to cooperate and easily put on the harness.

 

Time outs

There are situations I will recommend using a “time out” to discourage unwanted behaviors. A time out consists of 30 seconds to 2 minutes of the dog being removed from the situation in order to emphasize that we don’t want him to do a specific behavior. However this is always used in conjunction with the methods listed above, so that the dog is given information on what we do want him to be doing instead, those alternative behaviors are heavily reinforced, and the owner is using management and being proactive to prevent rehearsal of the unwanted behavior as much as possible.

 

Actions over words - using “no” effectively

If you are using time outs as part of your dog’s training program, THIS is the time to use your “no” effectively! (Although I tend to use the word “time out” instead, because it reminds me to be specific and consistent.)

  1. Say “no” or “time out.”

  2. Immediately after, put your dog up or remove yourself from the situation.

Now you have a cue that the dog will understand, and you can use it to highlight the exact moment that your dog did the unwanted behavior (eg right as he jumped up or nipped in play). It is your actions that give the cue meaning, rather than your specific wording or tone of voice.

 
 
Print Friendly and PDF
In

Baseline Needs Before Training

I adapted this idea from Sarah Stremming’s “Four Steps to Behavioral Wellness.” These are baseline needs that we must meet for our dogs before we can expect training to have any significant effect on their behavior. Sometimes addressing these needs is in fact all you need to remove problematic behaviors.

 

Exercise

Ever heard the phrase “a tired dog is a good dog”? While physical exercise won’t solve anxiety issues like separation anxiety, it has a huge impact on nuisance behaviors like jumping and pulling and barking. Any time you are asking your dog to exhibit self control in exciting situations, you must also be providing an appropriate outlet for their energy - they can’t just tamp all of it down without it spilling over in other contexts. Here is an article with all kinds of ideas for providing your dog with physical exercise.

 

Enrichment

Enrichment refers to activities your dog can engage in that provide mental exercise and entertainment. This is particularly important for “busy” dogs who get into trouble when bored. This is just as important as physical exercise, especially if there are long periods of time that your dog is being asked to just chill at home. Here is an article with all kinds of ideas for providing your dog with mental enrichment.

 

Health

Improper diet, gastrointestinal inflammation and other metabolic diseases, joint pain, sprained muscles, and many other health problems can cause dogs to be irritable, aggressive, anxious, impulsive, or non-responsive to training/“stubborn.” There is even a study linking noise sensitivities in dogs with pain. Think about how hard it is to focus on work when you have a headache, or have patience with your toddler climbing all over you when you’re experiencing back pain, or drive safely when you’re exhausted. These are some of the areas we want to look at when it comes to making sure that our dogs are in good health:

  • Pain: A comprehensive pain examination by your vet can bring injuries to light or rule them out. In some cases, an appointment with a specialist such as a neurologist may be warranted. You can also empower yourself to watch for injuries by watching (or even video taping) your dog’s walking and trotting gaits, doing gentle stretches, and teaching tricks that have your dog moving in a variety of ways. Watch for imbalances between left and right, changes in willingness to perform a trick, and other differences in movement. Don’t write off intermittent limps or skips in your dog’s steps. If pain is suspected but can’t be pinned down, ask your vet about trying a test course of pain medication. If your dog’s behavior improves on the meds and regresses when taken off, you know that you need to dig further.

  • X-rays: These may reveal arthritis, joint problems (such as hip dysplasia), or other hidden reasons for pain that causes irritability, aggression, or reluctance to perform certain behaviors.

  • Blood work: A full chemistry profile and complete blood count (CBC) may reveal underlying health conditions that were not yet showing obvious symptoms to the owner, but were felt by the dog and affecting his behavior.

  • Urinary analysis: Any sudden changes in potty training for an adult dog should be followed by a urinary analysis. Some puppies that are particularly difficult to potty train may have UTIs.

  • Dental cleaning: Jaw and tooth pain may be difficult for a pet owner to diagnose, but be causing reluctance to eat or sensitivity to handling around the head/neck. Keep up with brushing your dog’s teeth and dental cleaning per your vet’s recommendations. Beware of anesthesia-free dental cleanings.

  • Diet & GI health: Proper canine diets are a controversial subject. I personally have fed my own dogs everything ranging from premade raw food, homemade raw food, premade cooked and frozen food, to grain-free kibble as well as kibble containing grains like wheat. There is a lot of science that has been done on canine nutrition and foods , yet a LOT that still needs to be done. Personally, rather than obsessing over finding just the right foods, I choose to frequently switch up my dogs’ diets - allowing variety to hopefully make up for the deficiencies of any one type. By switching around, you may notice patterns such as your dog getting ear infections or itchy skin on ingredient X, or seemingly random bouts of diarrhea on food Y, or more impulsive behavior or irritability caused by inflammation with product Z.

  • Sleep: If you’re staying home with kids or leaving your dog in the backyard during the day, he may be missing out on needed sleep. Just like humans, dogs benefit from having quiet, dark areas to nap in as needed, and will be cranky and unfocused if sleep deprived. This is especially important for puppies, who famously get “bitey” when overly tired. (See this post on puppy schedules.)

  • Anxiolytic Medication: For dogs with severe anxiety issues, anxiolytic meds are a game changer. Just like you wouldn’t withhold medication for pain or a liver problem because you expect the dog to “get over it,” providing medication for severe anxiety is the humane thing to do. Sometimes brains need just as much help as broken bones or infected scratches.

If you suspect that something is physically wrong but your vet cannot find an obvious cause during a physical examination, don’t give up! Sometimes it can take some digging (see this post and comments below for many examples), but there is evidence that “a conservative estimate of around a third of referred [behavior problem] cases involve some form of painful condition, and in some instances, the figure may be nearly 80%.”

 

Communication

Clear communication is definitely a prerequisite for training. Mixed signals - such as sometimes petting your dog when he puts his paws up, while other times yelling at him because you’re wearing your “nice” clothes - will confuse your dog and grind training progress to a halt. Some aspects of clear communication are:

Small dog wearing harness heels next to a young girl, with the leash hanging slack between them

  • Consistency: All members of the household should follow the same rules and training procedures, unless there is a specific reason to alter them (for example, young kids may not be able to follow some of the more nuanced training procedures, so are given simplified directions). In addition, each person should make sure that they are consistent throughout the day.

  • Clear cues: One word/phrase per behavior.

    • Don’t use the same word to mean different things (such as saying “down” when you want your dog to get off the couch and when you want him to lie down on the floor).

    • Don’t use multiple words to mean the same thing (such as “shake” and “gimme your paw” for the same action).

    • Keep your tone consistent (say “come” the same way every time, not sometimes high-pitched and happy and other times low and upset).

    • Don’t jerk on your dog’s leash when you want him to do something; many owners will jerk when they want their dog to sit, or to slow down, or to stop sniffing, or to look up. How is your dog to know which one you want? Give them a verbal cue or hand signal that has been trained for a specific behavior, instead.

  • Reward markers: Use a clicker or other quick reward marker to let your dog know when they’ve done something good and earned a reward. I use a happy “yes!” when I want to use a verbal marker instead of a clicker. The reward marker should always be followed by a treat or other reward.

  • Communication goes both ways - in addition to being clear when cuing your dog, you should learn to read his body language so that you can understand what he is “saying” to you. Here are some resources on dog body language.

As we work together to train your dog using humane and effective positive methods, your ability to communicate with your dog will grow exponentially - leading to a stronger bond and more reliable behaviors.

 
Print Friendly and PDF
In

Using Treats in Training

Why do we use treats for training?

We must use something that will motivate the dog to change his behavior. Although anything that the dog enjoys can be used as a reward - such as playtime, belly rubs, or happy praise - treats are the most convenient in many situations. They allow you to reward many successful training reps within a short amount of time, and you can take them with you wherever you go. They’re also successful motivators for the vast majority of dogs; not all dogs enjoy playing tug, but nearly all love fresh cooked chicken and hot dogs!

 

What kind of treats should I use?

For your standard training treats, the rule of thumb is small and stinky!

  • Size of a pea or smaller, so that your dog doesn’t fill up quickly, and they’re ready to get right back to work.

    • Most commercially-produced dog treats can be easily broken into 2-3 smaller pieces, so that you get more “bang for your buck” both financially and in terms of calories. This is particularly important for small dogs.

  • Think smelly fish or meat-flavored treats rather than dry biscuits.

 

High value treats

Sometimes you want to use “high value” treats to really motivate your dog (such as for coming when called from a distraction) or do more effective counter-conditioning. Examples of foods that are commonly "high value” to a dog are:

  • plain boiled or rotisserie chicken

  • hot dogs

  • other cooked meats

  • string cheese

  • freeze-dried liver or other organ meats

  • homemeade tuna fudge

Keep in mind that your dog is the one who gets to decide what is “high value” - so experiment with different foods to see what he likes best!

 

Using balanced dog food as treats

If you’re doing lots of intensive training, you have a small dog or puppy, or your dog needs to lose weight, it’s extra important that your treats be small and healthy or low calorie (such as boiled chicken). But another way to keep them fit and healthy is to use real, complete and balanced dog food as training treats.

  • If you’re lucky enough to have a chow hound that loves his kibble, then skip the food bowl and use all (or most) of his kibble for training!

    • For extra-small pups, you can divide the kibble into even smaller pieces by soaking it in water first. Here’s a video showing this off.

    • You can make the kibble more exciting by soaking it in chicken or bone broth, too.

Freshpet food rolls on display at a pet store

You can take all of your dog’s daily portion of food and put it into a container on the counter, and pull from it throughout the day as needed. Then you can be sure that your dog isn’t getting any extra calories.

 

Food in tubes and pouches

This is a great way to deliver treats to dogs that are very chompy, or when you have a small or overweight dog and portion control is extra important. You gently squeeze the tube/pouch so that only a tiny amount comes out at a time, and your dog licks it up. Some options are:

Portuguese Water Dog licking at treat pouch

Mila licking at a fish-flavored cat treat in a reusable pouch

Nulo pouch of pureed treat containing beef, beef broth, beef liver, and kale
Reusable pouch of lickable peanut butter for dogs
Reusable pouch of fish-based lickable cat treat
 

Carrying treats around

When you have a brand new pup at home, or you’re doing a lot of training in a short amount of time (such as when we meet for private lessons), you’ll want to have a way to keep all those treats in an easily-accessible spot. Pockets end up filled with gross crumbs, and plastic bags make distracting crinkly noises and slow you down, so my favorite solution is a treat pouch. I use the Doggone Good! Trek N Train Treat Pouch, which has a magnetic closure that is easy to operate with one hand. Drawstring treat pouches and fanny packs can also work well. Squeeze tubes have caps to keep things clean, and you can put them into a large pocket or pouch, or just hold them in your hand while walking.

 

But my dog gets too excited with treats!

We can teach him to have better manners! Here is a great video on teaching a dog not to “mug” you:

If your dog does well until you’re handing him a treat, and then he jumps, use the “slow treats” game:

  • Slowly lower the treat toward your dog.

  • If he keeps “four on the floor” the whole time the treat is coming toward him, then you can let him take it from your hand.

  • If he jumps up at any point, immediately lift the treat farther away. Resume slowly lowering it when he has four paws on the floor.

  • You can use this tactic any time you are handing your dog a treat, even while working on something else (like a stay or heel). You can also use it when handing your dog a toy or chew.

If your dog doesn’t jump but uses his teeth too much when taking treats:

  • Feed the treats lower down, so that he lowers his head to eat them rather than reaching up. This makes nipping less likely.

  • Move your hand slowly and steadily - if you start to yank your hand back the moment that your dog is closing in, he will start to snatch more because he thinks he needs to be fast.

  • Hold the treat firmly in your fist or between your thumb and other fingers. If your dog is too rough, don’t let the treat go! Hold your hand still and wait for him to soften up, using his lips or tongue. Praise and release the treat then, to reward your dog for being gentle.

 

Kids giving treats

Children often have a hard time with the advice above - they get scared of the dog’s teeth and snatch their hands away quickly. This jerky movement is exciting to the dog, and makes him think that he has a small window of time in which he needs to grab the treat - thus making him less careful with his teeth! So have children follow these suggestions instead:

  • Feed the treat with their hand completely open and flat, with the treat in the middle. (If you’re familiar with feeding horses or other livestock, this is the same advice.)

  • Place the treat in a small bowl or plate that is then handed to the dog.

  • Place the treat on the floor instead of feeding from the hand.

  • Toss the treat to the dog. (Note that for some dogs, chasing the treat will be too exciting and lead to more rowdy behavior, so this is not recommended for all dogs.)

 
Print Friendly and PDF
In

Exercise

Many dog owners struggle to give their dogs enough exercise. Bored dogs who are full of energy are more likely to engage in nuisance behaviors like jumping, chewing, barking, digging, and pulling on leash. Here is a variety of ideas to help you find the right form of physical exercise for your dog. Note that depending on your dog’s personality and favorite activities, some of these - like fetching a ball - can wind your dog up rather than sating and calming him. You may choose to avoid certain activities for that reason, or follow them with a more calming activity like a decompression walk, tricks training, or chewing on a bone. Make sure to balance physical exercise with mental enrichment.

One other note of caution is that if your dog is not yet full grown, you should be careful with activities that are high impact or cause repetitive stress, as this can lead to growth plate injuries. If you want to take your dog for long bouts of exercise like jogging or running beside a bicycle, make sure to follow a conditioning plan and increase intensity over time, just as you would with a human athlete.

 

Running toy play

  • Fetch: chasing a tossed toy (often a ball), then bringing it back to you to toss again. Try a Chuck It to add distance to your throws.

    • If your dog doesn’t pick up the ball, try training a retrieve separate from playtime.

    • If your dog picks up the ball but doesn’t bring it toward you, try:

      • Play in a hallway or other corridor that encourages him to come back toward you because he doesn’t have anywhere else to go. Then use a treat or second ball to reward him.

      • After he picks up the ball, run in the other direction so he chases you. Reward with a treat or second ball when he catches up.

      • Attach a string to the ball and use it to gently reel your dog in. Reward with a treat or second ball when he reaches you.

    • If your dog brings the ball back but doesn’t drop it, try “2 ball fetch”:

      • 1. Throw the first ball.

      • 2. When your dog comes back, bring out the second ball and get him excited about it.

      • 3. As soon as he drops the first ball, throw the second one as a reward.

      • 4. Pick up the ball he dropped, and repeat.

    • If your dog brings the ball back but really wants to play tug instead of having you throw it again, try using a ball on a tug rope so that you can tug easily. Teach them to drop it separate from playtime. Examples of balls on a tug rope are the Nero Ball, Beanie Braided Fleece Ball Tug, Kong Squeaker Ball with Throw Rope, Fling Thing Tennis Ball Toy

  • Fetch on an incline: To make it more physically challenging, play on a slope. (Don’t use stairs, as that’s a major tripping/falling hazard when your dog is excited.)

  • Disc/frisbee: Same as fetch, but using a disc. Your dog may prefer this over a ball. Practice tossing the disc so it stays low to the ground, or even rolls along the ground, to discourage wild jumps into the air that may cause injury.

  • Toss a toy and run away: It doesn’t matter whether your dog picks up the toy - just get him sprinting after it, then sprinting back after you! Yes, you’ll be getting exercise as well, but your dog will be covering at least twice as much ground as you.

  • Toss a Lotus Ball or other treat-filled toy: If your dog doesn’t care about toys but enjoys treats, you can teach him how to get a treat out of a Lotus Ball, and get him chasing that.

  • Laser pointer: Some people like to have their dog chase a laser pointer like cats do, but this should be used with extreme caution as dogs are prone to developing compulsive behaviors associated with chasing lights and shadows. Most veterinarians and behaviorists advice against playing with laser pointers.

 

Tugging toy play

  • Go ahead and play tug, but make sure to practice drop it, teach your dog to sit politely instead of jumping up for and snatching at the toy, and only play with dog toys and not random objects.

  • If your dog has only a little interest in toys and you want to encourage him to play, try:

    • Use special “high value” toys like ones that incorporate real rabbit fur or real sheepskin.

    • Put a toy on a string and have it “run away” from your pup, then let him catch it and have it “try to get away.” This stimulates predatory behavior, which is natural for most dogs.

    • Give only very gentle tugs, and let your dog quickly “win.” Fuss over him when he wins the toy.

  • Flirt pole: A flirt pole is a like a giant cat toy or fishing pole for dogs. It allows you to whip a toy along the ground for your dog to chase and tug with. You can purchase a designated flirt pole (small dogs, big dogs) or create your own by purchasing a lunge whip at the feed store and attaching any toy dog to the end.

  • Spring pole: For serious tuggers! If your dog loves to play tug so much that he doesn’t even need a human on the other end of the toy, you can hang a metal spring from a tree or other solid object and attach a strong line and toy at the end. Your dog can tug and tug against the metal spring.

 

Indoor activities

  • Hide and seek: Hide from your dog while he is distracted, waiting in a stay, or being held by another family member. Then call him and let him run around and try to find you! This works well with multiple family members hiding and taking turns calling the dog.

  • Recall round robin: Make a big circle with family members and take turns calling your dog back and forth.

  • Toss treats or kibble: Let your dog chase down each piece as you toss them first to one side, then the other.

  • Indoor agility: Set up an obstacle course using furniture, cardboard boxes, and blankets! Try having your dog go under, over, through, between, and around various items. For example, he might go between the couch and wall, then under a draped blanket, then around a bar stool, then over a broomstick propped horizontally on books, then through a cardboard box tunnel!

 

Backyard activities

  • Backyard agility: As above, you can create your own obstacles that your dog will go under, over, through, between, and around. You can use items you already have, like broomsticks, flower pots, and deck chairs. If you like creating things, you can find tutorials online for creating PVC jumps and weave poles and wooden dog walks and a-frames. See a video with more ideas here. Or you can purchase a home agility kit online.

  • Digging: If your dog loves to dig up your veggies and flower beds, consider creating a designated digging area for him! You can use a plastic pool or create a wooden frame and fill it with play sand. To help him learn to dig only in that area, bury toys and chews for him to find.

  • Pool: Swimming is a great form of exercise. To help your dog get comfortable with the pool, practice getting in and out at the shallow end before you expect him to actually swim. If even that is scary, or you have a small dog, practice with a small plastic children’s pool first.

 

Outings

  • Swimming: You can find areas to let your dog paddle around or swim at Putah Creek by downtown Winters, Lake Berryessa, or travel farther out to a dog-friendly beach.

  • Hiking: Whether on or off leash, a hike in a natural area with lots of new scents beats a walk through the neighborhood any day. Check out Rockville Hills Regional Park, Browns Valley Open Space Preserve, Lagoon Valley and Pena Adobe, Rush Ranch Open Space, and Grasslands Regional Park.

  • Park: Even dogs who have trouble with coming when called can play at a grassy, open park if they are on a long line.

  • Jogging or running: If you’re just as much of an athlete as your dog, you can go jogging or running together, or have your dog run alongside your bicycle. (It’s recommended to use a Springer or similar dog attachment for your bike so that they can’t veer in front of you.)

  • Bikejoring, pulling scooter, carting: A strong, fit dog can pull your bicycle (called bikejoring), scooter, or a cart for exercise. This requires foundational training to start, stop, turn left and right, and ignore distractions.

 

Playmates

  • Dog park: The dog park is what many people immediately think of when they want their dog to have a romp and play. This can be a good outlet, but should be used with caution. Because there is no screening of who goes into the dog park, and not all owners are vigilant or knowledgeable, there can be lots of bullying or even fighting. In addition, the entrance to the park can be overwhelming, with everyone mobbing newcomers. The dog park should only be used for dogs who are already friendly and stable in a variety of social situations. Small dogs should not mix with unknown large dogs for safety. Here is more information on making outings to the dog park successful.

  • Play dates: Prearranged play dates make an excellent alternative to the free-for-all of the dog park. Set up one on one dates for dogs that your dog has already met and gets along with, or ones you think will be a good match. If you don’t know anyone among your friends, family, or neighbors, try searching for like-minded folks on NextDoor or local Facebook groups.

  • Group walks: For dogs that aren’t into play but do like to hang out with their doggy friends, arrange to go on a walk together, in the neighborhood or at a park.

 

Dog sports

There are many, many organized dog sports to dabble in, and multiple organizations that host competitions. You’ll want to ask around to find what is local to you. These are just a few of the sports that emphasize physical exertion on the dog’s part:

  • Agility: An obstacle course with jumps, tunnels, a-frame, weave poles, and more.

  • Lure coursing: The dogs chase after a “lure” (usually a white plastic bag) that is animated via a wire, and runs away like a small prey animal.

  • Weight pulling: Strong dogs pull a weighed-down cart or sled.

Print Friendly and PDF
In

Enrichment

Enrichment refers to activities your dog can engage in that provide mental exercise and entertainment. It is a critical part of providing for your dog’s needs, especially if you have a “busy” dog who gets into trouble when bored. Many of these activities can be prepped ahead of time, so that you can dole them out while you’re busy with work or childcare. Read through the list and pick out what makes the most sense for your dog. I have personally tried all of the products that I have linked to!

 

Food Toys

Stuffing a toy with food is a classic way to provide enrichment. The most well known food toy is the Kong. I generally buy one size larger than the recommended one from the company. If you need a more durable version, try the black Kong. Other hollow toys you can easily stuff with food, thanks to the large hole at the top, are the West Paw Toppl and Planet Dog Double Tuff. Start your dog out on:

  • Easy Mode: Fill with dry treats/kibble, which will fall out easily as your dog paws at the toy.

  • Medium Difficulty: Combine the dry stuff with foods that will “glue” themselves in.

    • Peanut butter (make sure it does not contain xylitol)

    • Cream cheese

    • Yogurt

    • Canned dog or cat food

    • Mushed banana or cooked sweet potato

    • Canned pumpkin

    • Ground raw meat or dog food

    • Dehydrated dog food mixed with a little water (eg Honest Kitchen)

  • Hard: Put the toy in the freezer overnight, and hand to your pup still frozen. If you’re worried about the contents of a Kong spilling out, plug the bottom hole with peanut butter first, then place upside down in a cup in the freezer.

Another type of toy that you can fill with a combo of kibble and goodies is the “slow bowl,” like the Outward Hound Slo Bowl. Don’t be shy about just spreading yummy goop across the grooves with a knife - it’s dishwasher safe. This can be frozen, as well.

A variant on the food stuffable toy is the Lickimat, a rubbery mat with little “nubs” all over the surface. You can smear canned food, yogurt, peanut butter, cream cheese, or other spreadables on it, then the dog will lick, lick, lick until it’s all gone. Put into the freezer to make it last longer. The repetitive licking can have a soothing affect on anxious dogs and puppies.

For dogs that go nuts for plain kibble (lucky you!), you can feed them via kibble dispensers. Good examples are the Kong Wobbler, PetSafe Kibble Nibble, and Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball. Of course, you can mix in some small treats to make it even more interesting for them. Some brands of freeze-dried raw food may fit inside as well, such as Instinct Freeze Dried Raw Toppers or Stella & Chewy’s Freeze Dried Toppers.

Is your dog really destructive? Try a treat/kibble dispenser made of PVC from Ulti-Mutt! (You could also make your own!)

 

Edible Chews

This refers to anything that is safe for your dog to completely consume as he chews on it. Many of these are many of real animal parts, making them very tasty and popular among dogs.

  • Less durable examples - for moderate chewers: bully sticks (much cheaper when purchased in bulk, and available in thicker/longer pieces for harder chewers), Earth Animal No-Hide Chews, dried beef tendons, pig ears and cow ears, Etta Says Premium Crunchy Chews.

  • More durable examples - for heavy chewers*: smoked knuckle bones, cow hooves, elk antlers, water buffalo horns, Ware Gorilla Chew (very dense wood), Himalayan Hard Cheese Chews, Etta Says Long Lasting Deluxe Chews,

    • *Note that some of these are tough enough that they could lead to cracked teeth, especially if your dog likes to put the chew in the back of his mouth and crunch down hard with his molars. Watch your dog’s chewing style - it’s safer if he’s slowly wearing at the toy instead.

  • Frozen chews: freeze low sodium broth in ice cubes (try a large silicone ice cube tray) or LickiMat Wobble as a bowl; you can get creative and freeze in layers so that treats or kibble are suspended inside. You could even feed your dog’s whole meal frozen into a bowl for hot days!

  • Raw meaty bones: beef marrow bones are a classic treat that can be purchased from your butcher or grocery store. You can also feed necks, wings, and feet from chickens, ducks, or turkeys, or even half or whole raw chickens. Many people feed their dogs entirely via raw meat, bones, and organs. Feeling nervous about giving raw food to your dog? Here's a great podcast on the topic. Excel Pet Pantry is a local company that does monthly deliveries of raw food as well as other products.

  • Fresh wheat grass: eating too much is likely to make your dog throw up, but you can buy small pots of these (usually sold for cats!) and let your dog have nibbles here and there for entertainment.

Pet Food Express in Davis has a great selection of chews and good prices. They are my favorite place to shop locally!

 

Creative Toys

Beyond tug and fetch!

  • Provide items that it's okay for your dog to tear up, such as:

    • cardboard boxes (thin boxes from cracker/cookie packaging and tissue boxes are great for smaller dogs)

    • junk mail

    • cheap stuffed animals (as long as he won't eat the stuffing)

    • old t-shirts or jeans cut into strips then braided tightly together

    • the Hol-ee Roller (mini, small, medium, large) can be stuffed with pieces of fabric, other toys, and/or large chews for the dog to chew on and pull out ( and here’s a “tough” version for power chewers)

    • if you’re a sewer, you can place a squeaker or treats into a small square of fabric, then hide that within another square of fabric, and so on, like a Russian doll of fabric layers that your dog can tear apart

  • Create a “busy box” of all kinds of things that the dog is allowed to chew on and tear up and play with. Use a plastic bin or cardboard box. Credit to my friend Tania Lanfer for introducing me to this idea. Here is a video of her dog Pira playing with one.

  • If your dog likes balls, try a giant Jolly ball. For variety, here’s a heavy duty version, one with a handle for tugging or throwing, one with a rope attached, and an egg-shaped one that will roll unpredictably. I’ve found that Jolly balls tend to be popular with herding breeds, and bully breeds that like very physical play, along with the ball-obsessed.

  • Hide your dog’s toys so they have to hunt for them; it adds a mental challenge to your regular games.

  • Rather than having all your dog's toys available all the time, rotate them so that old toys feel new and exciting again.

  • Bring home a sturdy stick for your pup to chew on and play with.

 

Scent Games

Dogs have amazing noses and love using them. Intensive sniffing, as when they are hunting for something, provides not just entertainment but a good mental workout.

  • Snuffle mat: the dense fringes of fabric allow you to hide kibble or treats, and your dog has to hunt for them.

  • Create your own snuffle mat by balling up a large towel or blanket, and hiding kibble/treats in the fold.

  • Scatter your dog’s food in the grass outside (like a living snuffle mat!).

  • Plant interesting scents in the yard for your dog to find. Do you have a friend with a pet rat? Ask for a handful of its bedding in a ziplock bag, and let your dog check it out through the opening. Coworker with a horse? Have her rub a rag or towel on the horse for you. You can do this with plants, too: “hey, where did this clump of magnolia flowers or rosemary stems come from?”

  • Nose Work is a formal activity in which you train your dog to find a specific scent (such as birch essential oil) and tell you where it is. Here is an explanation with ways to get you started.

 

Field Trips

Outings to new places provide mental enrichment. A 30 minute trip to someplace new will tire your dog out more than a 30 minute walk around the neighborhood. Places that are usually dog friendly are:

  • Pet stores (Pet Food Express is my favorite)

  • Feed stores (eg, Higby’s, Western Ranch)

  • Hardware stores (the Lowe’s in Vacaville explicitly welcomes pet dogs, but most other hardware stores do as well)

  • Plant nurseries

  • Outdoor cafes

  • JoAnn

  • Many clothing and home goods stores allow pets on a store-by-store policy. Call ahead to ask.

  • If you’re too busy to take your dog on a field trip just for him, take him with you on errands. Walk around the parking lot of your destination for 15 minutes, then have him wait in the car (if safe to do so) while you take care of business.

Even if you’re walking in your own neighborhood, you can spice up the walk by doing some agility or parkour tricks!

 

Decompression Walks

For dogs that have trouble settling down, I highly recommend decompression walks. These are long walks in natural settings (a school or park lawn will do if “real” nature isn’t available). They may be done on a long line or within a fenced area so that your dog can roam instead of being restricted to 6’. Dog parks don’t count as they increase arousal instead of decreasing it - unless you’re lucky enough to find a time that it’s empty.

Here are two podcasts discussing the benefits of decompression walks: A Decompression Walk Chat, and Decompression Walk Answers. Here is an article on the topic.

“For nearly 15 years I have been recommending that my clients find ways to increase their dogs’ off leash time in nature.... Why? I knew it was best. I saw the results in every single dog. I saw the results in my own. Whether or not something is easily accessible to us is not the deciding factor in its efficacy.

letting their dogs move their bodies freely in nature improves their behavior in daily life, full stop. The list of people who have reached out to me, shared that they were initially angered or frustrated by this advice, and went on to tell me they eventually tried it and will never go back, is a long one.

For some dogs, a long sniffy meander on a long line will serve their behavioral health needs just fine, while another dog might be frustrated beyond belief by that tether and do much better in a smaller space, restricted by fences.

I have mentioned several times that experimenting, trying different iterations and observing your dog’s behavioral effects is the method to use here. This is the only way to know if we are providing “enough” and there is no right answer. Some general guidelines are: younger dogs need more than older dogs, gundogs and herders need more than seems reasonable–again, especially when they are young–and dogs with higher-stress personalities tend to have some of the biggest positive outcomes. Companion and service bred dogs of many breed varieties need the least (and this is on purpose!). “Enough” is a moving target, and constant evaluation is required. If you are a behavior professional making off leash exercise a part of your behavior change plans, measure the behaviors you are trying to reduce and take good data on the progress. Your clients will be best motivated by results. ”
— Sarah Stremming

Do your best to stay out long enough that your dog actually slows down and relaxes. Remember that this is easier to achieve if you are able to go frequently, even if each outing is then shorter.

On days off, drive farther away if needed, to access hiking spots or just go somewhere new. Search for dog-friendly trails on AllTrails.com.

If your dog needs a private space because he’s fearful or reactive, check out SniffSpot, which allows people to rent out their yards or land for walking. Or try posting on NextDoor, Facebook, or other social media to locate neighbors willing to lend out their yard or land.

 

Tricks Training

Tricks training is a great way to tire your dog mentally. Here is a YouTube playlist full of tricks tutorials.

You can also train for a specific dog sport, which gives you concrete goals and structure. Competing allows you to show off your dog’s training progress and spend time with like-minded people. But even if you never compete, structured training allows you to keep progressing, and therefore mentally challenging your pup. Examples of dog sports are:

  • Agility: an obstacle course with jumps, tunnels, a-frame, weave poles, and more

  • Competition Obedience: requires precise heeling, stays, understanding sit vs down vs stand, retrieving a dumbbell, recognizing your scent on an item, and more

  • Rally O: heeling, sit vs down vs stand, stays, and more as you progress around a course

  • Musical freestyle: choreograph a series of tricks to music of your choice

  • Rally-FrEe: a combination of musical freestyle and rally o; you and your dog perform tricks like spins and leg weaves as you progress around a course

  • Treibball: also called “urban herding,” it allows your dog to “herd” giant inflated balls into a soccer net

  • Herding: actually herding real animals, most commonly sheep, goats, ducks, or cattle

  • Tracking: your dog learns to follow a scent trail that someone walked earlier, from start to finish

  • Nose Work: your dog learns to hunt down an odor (usually essential oils), similar to detection dogs

 

Interactive/Puzzle Food Toys

These are food toys that require your dog to figure out a specific way to acquire the food inside. Unlike most of the food toys listed up top, these require close supervision to make sure that your dog doesn’t just chew through the wood or plastic instead of solving the puzzle! You may also have to help him along in the beginning.

Print Friendly and PDF
In